Wooden Cab Kit #1
Dimensions - foot print 4 5/32" wide 3" long 3 7/8" to the top of the roof.
Thanks for purchasing this kit. Just a reminder, this kit fits the Bachmann Spectrum 1:20.32 models 4-4-0 and 2-6-0. These parts are cast from Poly Urethane resin using silicon molds. These are not mass-produced but my hand pours each part and while every effort has been taken to assure the quality of each part you should expect some flaws that you will need to repair before assembling.
The first thing you are going to want to do when you receive this model is locate all 11 parts and identify them (see Figure 1)
Figure 1 Parts
I hand pack each kit so the parts should all be there, but then, I.m only human so if I forgot a part email me. The windows, doors and cantilever roof
pieces are in a smaller plastic zip lock bag to make sure they don.t get lost when you are removing the larger pieces. Once you have accounted for all the pieces and know their names you need to acquire the tools and materials necessary to assemble the cab.
After you have acquired all the necessary tools and materials complete the following steps.
- You will need to use glue that works on Poly Urethane resin and that sets at a speed you are comfortable with. I build my cabs with Super Glue because I like to move fast. The draw back is that joints are a little more fragile.
- If you are making the windows and doors movable you will need the necessary hinges for the doors and 2 - 1/16" thick by 1/8" wide by 2 3/4" styrene strips for the top window glide.
- You will need clear plastic or acetate no thicker than 1/64" for the window panes.
- You must have six 00-90x 1/4" hex head screws and flat washers.
- You will need some modeling putty or filler.
- You need a true flat surface that is easily protected from glue run off.
- You need a good-sized square. It is preferable to make a square out of 3/4 inch plywood and attach it to your work surface so that it doesn.t slide around, but if you are used to a regular square that will do as long as its at least 4 inches long .
- You need the following hand tools;
- Screw bit 00-90x size and corresponding tap (and pen vice)
- Sharp pointed Exacto knife
- A flat backed razor blade
- A small thin flat file
- A small thin needle nose file
- Razor saw (or very thin sharp saw)
- A sharp WHITE pencil
- You need some 120 grit sand paper.
- You need some masking tape preferably no wider than one inch.
- Clean all the pieces with Formula 409 and rinse thoroughly and let dry.
- I make sure that all pieces are flat before I pack them, but I cannot control the temperatures while the pieces are shipped. If a pieces has become distorted do the following:
- Set your oven to 200 degrees
- Get a flat piece of wood larger than the piece/s you will need to heat up.
- If the piece has a glide or an overhanging detail that prevents it from laying flat you should support the piece on either side of the protuberance with Popsicle sticks so that it remains flat on board.
- Heat the piece/s for 30 minutes at 200 degrees (Make sure the oven is in a well ventilated area, the fumes are toxic)
- Remove after 30 minutes and let cool for an hour. If the pieces were supported properly they should flatten back out.
- Clean flash and level vents on the pieces.
- Make sure the front piece fits into the slot for the boiler and trim and shave from the inside if necessary.
- Trim your windowpanes to size before assembling. Note that the fixed window inside dimensions are different, so you will have to cut the panes to fit.
- Fill any surface imperfections with the modeler.s putty of your choice.
- Test fit all the pieces together with the masking tape making sure that they are correctly oriented. The Front piece should be facing out with the doorsill over hang facing out and the recessed windows section facing in. The fitted window of each side should be towards the front of the cab
. Check that the window glide is on the inside of the cab.
On that back assembly; make sure that the framing is on the inside. On the roof the concave surface is of course facing up not down :)
- I made sure the prototype pieces fit accurately, but these pieces are copies from a rubber mold so the joints are not as clean as the prototype. You will need to clean these joints to assure a tight square fit.
- Test fit again with the clean joints. Now try the roof. There are joist and rim joist on the inside of the roof. Make sure that the sides and front and backs fit easily into these recesses. You will need to use your files to clean these out and make sure they fit. You should also test fit the front piece on the Bachmann boiler to make sure it is thin enough to clear the slot once painted. You shouldn.t have to do any filing but better safe than sorry.
- If you are making a door that opens it would be best to install the doors to the front before gluing up the sides and back. This is entirely dependent on the type of hinge you will be using, but you will definitely need to remove the bottom doorstop and taper the doorstop on the hinge side to make sure the door doesn.t bind.
- With everything cleaned and test fitted you can assemble the pieces in the following order:
- Front to lft side
- Back Assembly to lft side
- Rt side to the Front and Back Assembly
- Let the glue set for an hour and then check the cab walls for squareness. If square and you are installing sliding windows then do the following.
- Tilt the cab on its left side with the top of the cab facing you
- Take your styrene strips and test its fit on the top of the window. The edge of the strip facing you should align with the top of the inside framing found on either side of the window openings. It should fit loosely between the Front and the Back Assembly.
- Once the fit is loose put a small drop of glue on both of the framing pieces and apply the styrene strip. Repeat the steps for the Right side making sure that the glue has dried before you flip the cab over.
- Now test fit the roof again and make any last minute adjustments. With the cab in place glue the Cantilever pieces on the inside of the roof ends making sure that the very faint letter 'I' inscribed on one piece is facing inside and not out.
- You are now ready to mount the cab. Once you have removed the Bachmann cab you will need to cut off the protrusions for the mounting screws of the old cab. This is done quickest with a razor saw. Be careful not to scratch the decking details. There are 4 of these at each corner of the old cab and the new cab will not clear these so they must be cut off.
- Slide the cab into the slot for the boiler. There is a little free play from side to side on the boiler so that you can adjust the setback between the deck and the sides. Make sure they are even and then use some masking tape on the outside of the cab to hold them in place.
At this point your Back Assembly may have flared out or in a little. Adjust it so that you have the same setback from the deck on both sides securing in place temporarily with masking tape. If everything is aligned, take your WHITE pencil and scribe a line on the deck with the inside of the walls.
- Remove the cab, and using a 3/64 inch bit drill 6 holes just 1/64 inch on the outside of the white line you just scribe. There should be 1/64 inch gap between the outside of the hole and the white line. Place them at the following locations:
- Just beneath the doors
- In the center of the sides
- At the back corners
- Now, repeat most of step 15 except for scribing a line. Instead you are going to need to flip the cab and the deck over and using a 00-90x bit and the 3/64 inch holes you have already drilled as guides drill out the bottom of the cab. Make sure the hole is deep enough that the tap will be able to cut a clean thread.
- Remove the cab and tap out the holes with the 00-90x tap. Test the and make sure the screws fit fine and that that they screw all the way in and flush to the bottom of the cab
If everything looks good you can cut off the bottom rail of the Back Assembly. That piece has scribes on the outside that you can follow to make the cut.
That piece is only there to make squaring the cab a little easier and to prevent the top joint from stressing too much while the glue dries.
- With roof doors and windows in place you can prime and paint your cab.
- After the paint has set for 48 hours, you can glaze the windows. Use whatever clear plastic or acrylic you want provided it is no thicker than 1/64 inch or less.
- Finally you can install the cab without masking tape this time. Use the washers now and screw the cab down to the deck and you are finished!
PLEASE REMBER! Safety first. A lot of materials and the dust from these resins are toxic to the human body. Wear the proper respiratory protection. Also don.t drink and model.